From the category archives:

Skin Structure

Anti-wrinkle Skincare Products

Lets clear one thing up straight away, high price does not always mean the most effective.

Some anti-wrinkle creams out on the market today cost over 300 USD, well that is just ridiculous. For that kind of money you could get all of the following, a really effective day cream, a night cream, some body lotion, moisturizing mask, deep cleansing mask and eye gel.

So why is that some products cost so much?

Simple, it’s marketing and hype I’m afraid.

Celebrity endorsements (who have to be paid large amounts), TV and radio advertising which doesn’t come cheap by any means. So at the end of the day all of that pushes the price of a lot of the anti-wrinkle products to almost astronomical levels.

It has been proven recently that a more natural approach to skincare actually has better results than a lot of the hyped up “celeb” creams.

Did you know that some of these skin creams actually contain the heavy metal lead ?  I bet you didn’t. Now lead is actually toxic and can lead to brain damage in high enough doses. These people are encouraging you to rub it into your skin !

Parabens.

Now these you will see in a lot of skin creams and they are preservatives, OK so your skin will last longer (joke) but seriously should these substances be in skin creams ?  No is the answer.

To spot them you need to look for the following prefixes propyl, ethyl, butyl or isopropyl, depending on the alcohol that is used to create the chemical preservatives.

If the cream you are going to buy contains any of those then I’d recommend you avoid it.

So what can you do to ensure that you are using safe anti-aging products ?

You need to know first that a lot of the damage which causes wrinkles actually occurs when you are quite young, now don’t give up because it can be repaired with the correct regime.

Once you pass 30 it is imperative that you take the necessary to steps to protect your skin and prevent wrinkles.  It is recognised that once you get past this age, many of the naturally occurring proteins are already starting to reduce, causing your skin to lose it’s firmness and elasticity.

Your skins production of both collagen and elastin slows down past 30.

Many of the “upmarket” skin products claim to be anti-oxidising or anti-oxidents, when in fact they actually contain very little amounts and I mean miniscule amounts of the active ingredients needed to keep your skin looking its best.

One interesting development has been the massive increase in “collagen” products.  These actually prey on the fact that a lot of people now know that a lack of collagen causes saggy wrinkly skin, so it must good if a cream includes collagen right ?

Wrong.

The collagen type that most of these anti-wrinkle skincare products contain is marine collagen and unfortunately your skin can do nothing with this, Your pores cannot absorb it so it is completely useless to you.

So what should you be looking for ?

You really should be looking for the following ingredients in your anti-aging creams firstly antioxidants which work to repair the damage already done.

HE Q10

HEQ10 contains 2 very powerful anti-oxidants, natural vitamin E and Coenzyme Q10. You will find skincare products with one or the other, but in truth not in the concentration required to be truly effective.

Cynergy TK

The active component of this ingredient is a compound called “Functional Keratin”.  Now keratin is a protein responsible for the skin’s toughness.  The skin cells need it to reproduce.  Collagen and elastin fibers need it for strength.

But it is extremely difficult to create keratin in a form that can be readily absorbed by the skin.  One New Zealand company however has been able to isolate and extract the protein from sheep’s wool.  Their manufacturing processes are gentle enough to ensure that the protein remains active and is not rendered useless.

In clinical studies, the anti aging skin care system that contains this ingredient has been shown to increase the production of new skin cells, to also increase the strength of collagen fibers, reduce inflammation and redness, while having an antioxidant activity that is truly unique.

Phytessence Wakame

Wakame is a kind of kelp or seaweed.  Apart from being a very nutritious food in it’s own right, it is highly rich in numerous vitamins and minerals.  The calcium content is 15 times higher than an equivalent serving of milk. Historically in Japan it was used as an anti aging skin care mask.  More recently researchers have discovered exactly why it works to preserve a youthful appearance.

The reason that hyaluronic acid is lower in older skin has to do with an enzyme known as hyaluronidase.  The enzyme breaks down the amino acid protein and is responsible for the loss of elasticity that you see when you are younger.

Hyaluronan is a major part of the skin and plays a critical role in tissue repair. Extracts from Wakame kelp have been shown to block the enzymatic reaction that reduces the levels of hyaluronic acid in the skin.  This has been clinically proven in controlled studies.

So where can you find skincare products which contain all 3 ?

Why not take a look at this range of truly natural skincare products from Xtend-Life


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Understand Your Skin And How It Works


The human skin consists of two major structures:

* Epidermis

* Dermis

The Epidermis

The Epidermis is further subdivided into 5 Layers (from deepest to most superficial layer):

* Stratum basale

* Stratum spinosum

* Stratum granulosum

* Stratum lucidum

* Stratum corneum

The Stratum basale (also called Stratum germinativum): This is the deepest layer of the epidermis and it is here that new cells are generated for the renewal of the epidermal layers of the skin. A process of cell division referred to as mitotic division is responsible for the generation of the new epidermal skin cells. After the mitotic division (cell division leading to the formation of a new cell) a newly formed cell will undergo a progressive maturation called keratinisation as it migrates to the surface of the skin (1).

The Stratum spinosum: The cells that divide in the stratum germinativum soon begin to accumulate many desmosomes (structures that join adjacent cells together) on their outer surface (1).

The Stratum granulosum: As keratinocyes (these are the basic cell of which the epidermis is composed) progressively mature they accumulate a protein called keratin (this process is called keratinisation). In addition, the cells of the stratum granulosum accumulate dense basophilic keratohyalin granules (Granules found in living cells of keratinizing epithelia) (1).

The Stratum lucidum: This is the second layer of the epidermis and varies in thickness throughout the body depending mainly on frictional forces and is thickest on the palms of the hands and soles of the feet (1).

The Stratum corneum: This layer consists of primarily dead skin cells. As a cell accumulates keratinohyalin granules, it is thought that rupture of lysosomal membranes (membrane covering lysosomal enzymes) release lysosomal enzymes (Lysosomal enzymes are those enzymes which are responsible for breaking down complex chemicals within a cell which have expended their useful life) that eventually cause cell death (5). The dead and dying cells filled with mature keratin form the stratum corneum .

Skin Renewal Process In the Epidermis

The epidermis is composed of stratified squamous epithelium (cells) and contains four principal types of cells. About 90% of the epidermal cells are keratinocytes (i.e.: cells with finger-like or ‘horny’ projections). They produce the protein keratin. Keratin helps waterproof and protect the skin and underlying tissues (2).

Keratinocytes in the stratum basale of the epidermis can undergo mitosis (cell division). The formation of new cells in this basal layer gradually pushes previously formed cells upward through the stratum spinosum. As keratinocytes approach the surface of the epidermis, they accumulate intracellular keratin and secrete a waxy material into the intercellular space; these changes are visible in the stratum granulosum, a distinctive layer which is diagnostic for a keratinized epithelium. As maturing keratinocytes seal off the intercellular spaces through which they receive nutrients, they eventually die and form the stratum corneum, a tough and relatively impermeable layer of hardened, dead cells. Eventually, as cells reach the surface, they are sloughed off. The entire epidermis above the basal layer is replenished (replaced by new cells) within about two weeks (3).

Epidermal cells

There are several cells that make up the epidermis. Although the keratinocytes are by far the most common, they are just one of the cells found in the epidermis.

Others include:

Melanocytes: The main function of melanocytes is to produce melanin, which is responsible for the colour of our skin (4).

Langerhans Cells arise from bone marrow and migrate to the epidermis. Langerhans cells interact with white blood cells called ‘helper T cells’ in immune responses and are easily damaged by UV radiation (2).

Merkel Cells: Merkel cells are located in the deepest layer (stratum basale) of the epidermis of hairless skin, where they are attached to keratinocytes by desmosomes. Merkel cells make contact with the flattened portion of the ending of a sensory neuron (nerve cell), called a tactile (Merkel) disc, and are thought to function in the sensation of touch (2).

Dermo-epidermal Junction

The Epidermis and Dermis are separated by the Dermo-Epithelial Junction. This junction holds the epidermis and dermis together and this is achieved by various fibers including collagen and desmosomes. This prevents the two layers becoming separated in areas of high shearing stress such as fingertips, palms of the hands and soles of the feet.

The Dermis

The Dermis consists of two sub-layers:

* The Papillary dermis and

* The Reticular dermis

The Papillary dermis (sub-epithelial layer) includes areolar connective tissue, dermal papillae (finger like projections that increase the surface area) and ridges that extend into the epidermis.

These nipple-shaped structures protrude into the epidermis, and many contain loops of capillaries (very small blood vessels). Dermal papillae cause ridges in the overlying epidermis. It is these ridges that leave fingerprints on objects that are handled (2).

The Reticular dermis consists of dense, irregular connective tissue containing interlacing bundles of collagen and coarse elastic fibers. Within the reticular region, bundles of collagen fibers interlace in a netlike manner. A small quantity of adipose tissue, hair follicles, nerves, oil glands, and the ducts of sweat glands occupy spaces between the fibers. Varying thicknesses of the reticular region contribute to differences in the thickness of skin. The combination of collagen and elastic fibers in the reticular region provides the skin with strength, extensibility, and elasticity.

The Hypodermis

The reticular region is attached to underlying organs, such as bone and muscle, by the subcutaneous layer, also called the hypodermis or superficial fascia. The subcutaneous layer also contains nerve endings called lamellated or Pacinian (pa-SIN-e-an) corpuscles that are sensitive to pressure. Nerve endings sensitive to cold are found in and just below the dermis, while those sensitive to heat are located in the middle and outer dermis (2).
Skin Care of the Epidermis, Dermo-Epithelium, Dermis and Hypodermis

Exfoliation

Exfoliation of the skin affects the epidermis. The primary function of exfoliation is to:

a) Remove dead skin cells

b) Promote new skin cell growth

c) Promote blood circulation

Exfoliating the skin’s surface is an important step in the maintenance of healthy, vibrant looking skin. Products such as the Skin Renewal Gel, from Wildcrafted Herbal Products, utilises natural ingredients that gently remove the dead skin cells and nourish underlying layers. Keeping dead skin cells to a minimum, allows the skin to be able to breath better, absorb nutrients from moisturisers more easily and reduces the risk of infections such as Ring Worm and other pathogens.

In addition, removal of dead skin cells will reduce the potential for sweat glands to become blocked thus reducing white heads, blackheads and acne.

Cleansing

Following exfoliation, cleansing will remove more deep seated dirt and help free pores of possible obstruction from the stale, natural skin oils and environmental particles that become lodged in the skin’s folds, wrinkles and pores.

Toning

Once the dead skin cells have been removed and the skin cleaned it is important to prevent pores from remaining open. Toning, utilises skin care products that contain astringent ingredients which will close opened pores and prevent particles from entering the pores while they are wide open.

Natural skin care products should be used at all times, as there is increasing evidence suggesting that some non-natural skin care products contain ingredients that may be harmful to your health, as they are absorbed by your skin into the blood stream.

Natural skin care products such as moisturisers and masks target the Dermo-epithelium, Dermis and Hypodermis.

Moisturisers

Moisturisers penetrate the epidermis as they are absorbed into the deeper layers of the skin and the nutrients from the herbal extracts and essential oils in these moisturisers have the ability to promote cell growth and collagen production.

Moisturisers are an important final step in your daily skin care regime. They moisturise and help protect your skin, they hydrate your skin and nourish the cells and other structures outlined above, thus helping in maintaining the health of your skin.

Clay masks

Once or twice a week, a deep cleansing mask should be used on your facial skin and neck. These masks not only help to deeply cleanse your skin, but provide important nutrients to the tissues of your skin and help to remove dead skin cells from your skin’s surface.

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